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When compiling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end names. But, tucked high among these food titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has made the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble restaurant securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.